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Follow me on Facebook, or follow my blog
to hear when new hints and tips are posted here.

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If you find any errors or dead links here or in the book, I'd be very grateful if you would notify me so that I can rectify the issue - nbkantara@gmail.com Please note that I cannot guarantee that web links I give you here are still in use, but I'm sure you'll be able to find what you want with the help of Google.

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Update to Chapter 6 – Miscellany (added 31/05/23)

Further to my last addition on 18/12/22, I'm afraid that the matter of diesel infection is no longer as simple as it was last year. We now have "sticky diesel" or "sticky fuel" to contend with. It's a newish phenomenon caused by the bio fuels added to our red diesel, and it can cause serious damage to the engine. Please read the articles written by people more expert than me.

https://tinyurl.com/4du93y7w

https://tinyurl.com/5yk5axsj

https://tinyurl.com/8x3adw56

Update to Chapter 6 – Miscellany (added 18/12/22)

There's an important detail to remember when you're preparing your boat for winter, which I've found not many boaters know about. It's strongly advised that you fill your diesel tank to the top - not forgetting first to pour in the prescribed dose of diesel bug treatment. If you don't fill that space at the top of the tank, then condensation could form and water would drip into the fuel, and this gives the bug the ideal conditions for growth and for getting into the diesel. Yes, I know you've just added a diesel bug treatment, but you really don't want to take the risk, do you? We suffered from it some years ago. Fortunately, it didn't get any further than the first filter. We were lucky.

Update to Chapter 2 – Software (added 02/09/22)

In my last update to this chapter, I suggested that boaters had a look at the What3Words app, that it might be a bit simpler to use. I take that back.

I have recently heard from police sources that emergency service staff in the call-rooms don't like What3Words because it's too easy to mis-hear what people have said when reporting their three words. They're likely to be speaking quickly, they may have a regional accent, and it's easy to confuse miss.spears,novice with miss.peers.novice, for example. They prefer lat/long references, which are less prone to error. Repeating a digit is simpler that repeating a word that's easily misunderstood.

Go to Chapter2 - Software, and check out the latitude/longitude apps that I mention there.

Update to Chapter 6 – Miscellany (added 17/06/21)

SERIOUS WARNING!

I was horrified when I read in Towpath Talk the other day an article written by a man whose gas regulator failed. He was cooking on his gas hob at the time, and suddenly huge flames shot out from beneath the pan under great pressure. It was a shock, but easily remedied by shutting the gas off with the knob on the front of the cooker, but things wouldn't have been the same if he'd been watching the telly while a pan was on the boil. There could have been a fire.

The regulator is to be found with your gas cylinders, between the gas output and the pipe that takes the gas inside to fuel your cooker, gas stove, fridge perhaps. Its job is to bring the pressure of the gas down from the huge force inside the cylinder to a level that's safe and appropriate for use.

That much I knew. What I didn't know was that the regulator can fail, and should be changed every ten years. Kantara's might have been there for well over that length of time. I'd never even thought about it. I got it changed straight away.

Please be warned. They're not expensive devices. The one in the picture above currently costs just £7:00, but they should only be installed by a Gas Safe registered installer and in accordance with the manufacturers' instructions, so be safe and legal, and hire someone to do the job for you. The installation date of your current one may be displayed on a sticker on it, but don't take risks. It's not an expensive way to prevent a fire.

Update to Chapter 6 – Miscellany (added 05/06/21)

CAUTION!

In the book, I warn readers not to sit on the stern rail, or taffrail, because of the danger of falling/getting knocked off, and being sucked into the propeller. Marianne Cook (Part Time Boater on YouTube) wasn't doing that, but nonetheless had the awful misfortune of getting her leg caught in the prop.

Marianne's given me permission to show this video, in which she tells her scary tale. Please notice that she has posted videos subsequent to this one, detailing her treatment and progress. The rest of her vlog posts are well worth watching too!

Please heed her warnings!

Update to Chapter 6 – Miscellany (added 28/03.21)

As I write this, I'm hoping to return to Kantara next month and, fingers crossed, start cruising. But before we do, we're going to need to make sure she's fit and well after our absence of six months. Fortunately for me - and you - CRT have recently published an article in their Boaters' Update on the web - "Getting your boat ready for its first cruise of 2021." I need say no more. Click this link and benefit from their expert advice. You'll need to scroll down to find the article - Getting your boat ready for its first cruise of 2021

Happy boating!

Update to Chapter 1 – Hardware (bits and pieces) (added 30/10/20)

This one's very much for those of you totally new to boats, but I thought I really ought to include it, because there's at least one person out there who wishes that they'd known this before embarking on her life with her feet under water.

Suzy was thoroughly enjoying the first week on her newly-purchased narrowboat. All was going well until she ran out of gas. She had two bottles, but both were now empty. She looked at her map and discovered that she'd be able to buy two more from a marina just a few hours away. First, she thought, she'd disconnect both bottles while there was no-one around to watch her.

Nearly an hour later, Suzy gave up. Try as she might, she couldn't unscrew the hoses from the bottles. She was going to have to look like the helpless little woman she wanted not to be, and ask for help at the marina. Probably from a man!

Her problem? The screw of the hose into the gas bottle works the opposite way round from most other screw fitments. The spanner must be turned clockwise to undo it, anti-clockwise to tighten it. What Suzy had been doing - and she'd used a mallet in the process - was tightening the screw up very tightly.

Update to Chapter 1 – Hardware (bits and pieces) (added 25/10/20)

Two years ago, I passed on a tip about using Brewers' Yeast in your toilet cassette instead of the various proprietary fluids, but now I have discovered a better solution still - no pun intended!

Biological washing liquids do a very good job, smell better and cost less. I've known about this for some time now, but only recently changed from the yeast. The obvious thing to do is to buy the cheapest brand you can find. The active ingredient doesn't change. Start by using a capful in a litre of water. I think you'll like it!

Update to Chapter 6 - Miscellany (added 12/09/20)

The following advice comes from CRT, and is used with their permission.
Those of you go anywhere near commercial shipping will know that there’s a formal way of communicating your presence, and intentions, by way of your horn or lights. For some parts of the waterway network, such as London, it’s need to know knowledge!

They’re not too tricky to memorise but perhaps it’s an idea to have a small, laminated, version stored somewhere on the stern deck just in case you need a reminder.

• One short blast – manoeuvre to starboard (right).
• Two short blasts – manoeuvre to port (left). This would be used, for example, if you need to pass an oncoming craft on the left side (port). It’s standard procedure always to pass on the right (starboard). A prime example are the refuse barges coming out of Camden which do not have the depth of water to move over to the right as they head out west from Little Venice, or the approach to the Maida Hill tunnel when heading east.
• Three short blasts – I have engaged reverse; the craft may still have forward movement, but I am in reverse.
• Four short blasts followed by either one or two short blasts – I am turning around, either to port or starboard as indicated by the final one or two blasts.

The above signals are used everywhere but, in addition, on Trust waters and the River Thames, there’s another.

• One long six second blast – a warning, here I come. If heard on a blind bend, it could be considered good manners to reply with the three short blasts and gently engage reverse: if it is something big coming around the corner it will help them to know you are there.

*****

I add to this a warning. Not everyone knows these signals, and some may perceive them as being aggressive on your part. We've experienced this on blind bends - "Okay, okay, we heard you!" from the oncoming boat. At that point we had to point out, "So you knew we were coming, but we didn't have a clue you were there."

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Update to Chapter 6 - Miscellany (added 07/08/20)

Grace, and I to a lesser extent, have recently started to suffer from sniffs, snuffs and sneezes. Nothing serious, but eventually very annoying. The first thing to be a likely culprit was simple, everyday dust. We do dust the boat fairly often, but we did a specially thorough vac-through nonetheless. While we were doing it, we met the many webs of the abundant spiders we've been busy trying to evict. We vacuum-cleaned them up, too - the webs, not the spiders. Maybe they were at least in part responsible for our affliction. Further research told me that they might well have been. So it's possible that that did the trick, but...

I read something on another boater's website that made me think of taking down the vent covers on the ceiling, six of them in total. And what did I find under the mushrooms? Spiders' webs. Lots of them. Thick, dirty and dusty. Out came the vac again, and I cleaned out all of them. All we have to do now is wait and see if we sniff less.

So, the bottom line is clean your vents regularly and often. It doesn't take long. While they're down, wash the vent covers and any mesh that's involved. Some of you may want to polish them, too!

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Update to Chapter 1 - Hardware (added 25/02/20)

We've been away from Kantara for six months or so, so we've not really been exposed to hints-and-tips-gathering opportunities, but this one I got from my daughter Naomi as related to life in a house. I'm sure it works very well in boats, too, and I'm looking forward to putting it to use on ours.

Narrowboats are not famous for their enormous wardrobes, but narrowboaters are well-known for their creased, wardrobe-crushed clothing. Naomi's very simple tip (okay, so you all know this one already, and are wondering how on earth a guy can get to the age of 68 without knowing it!) addresses the problem of the shortness of clothes-hanging rails. The solution is split rings.

£2.99 (with free delivery) bought me 100 of them. What do I do with them? I drop one over the hook of a clothes hanger, and from it I hang another coat-hanger - another shirt or jacket. If the cupboard/wardrobe/clothes-rail has enough height, another ring can be hung on the second hanger, and a third one suspended. Three garments on one rail-space!

I don't need 100, obviously, but that was the cheapest way to buy a sufficiency for house and boat, and to dole them out to the rest of the family as well.

And they are key-rings, too!

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Update to Chapter 2 - Software (added 24/09/19)

Depending on your degree of narrowboat experience, this will be either instructional or fun. Or both! It comes as an app for your mobile devices and as a download for your PC or Mac. All of them free. It's called "Narrowboat Simulator", and it's a lot of fun. It's far too complex for me to describe for you here, so I suggest you go to the website and take a look for yourself. And enjoy!

(To total newcomers to the canals, especially the really dense ones (not that any of you are, of course!) I would like to point out that locks do not manage themselves automatically as seen in the simulator, neither do lift- and swing-bridges.) 😄

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Update to Chapter 3 - At the helm (added 12/09/19)

I have nothing new to say on the subject of passing moored boats, but I have come across this infographic that explains something of the science of the matter, and may help you understand better.

I can't find out where the graphic came from - I picked it up on Twitter, but I don't think it was created by the person who shared it. If you know the source - or if you are the source! - please email me and let me know (address at the end of the book).

 

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Update to Chapter 6 - Miscellany (added 31/08/19)

I can't personally recommend this either, because I have no use for it, but if you're a continuous cruiser, or hoping to be one, then you really need to know about the Post Office's Poste Restante service, used by thousands who have no fixed address.

Full details and useful links can be found at www.postoffice.co.uk/mail/poste-restante

Enjoy!

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Update to Chapter 2 - Software (added 25/08/19)

This is something I can't personally recommend since I don't use it. You're most likely to want it if you're a continuous cruiser. It's an app from our NHS called Babylon GP at hand.

Don't be put off by that last sentence. Read on.

When you look deeper, you find that voice calls with the GP are often sufficient. Video is only necessary if they need to see a rash, injury, swelling or whatever.

If I were continually on the move, I'd go for this. Visit the site, study the details, read the testimonials. It sounds brilliant.

I do hope you'll never need to use it, though!!

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Update to Chapter 1 - Hardware (added 29/07/19)

Ever since our first year on board Kantara we've had two centre lines, and we run them from the centre to the stern, one on each side of the boat. Having just one was problematic because fixtures on the roof - solar panels, ventilation mushrooms and the Alde flue - got in the way when trying to get the line over to the other side from where it was lying. Now that we have one lying on each side it's far easier for the helmsman to take whichever line is needed, step off the boat and hold her to the bank.

This year, however, we reflected on the several occasions when it would have been useful for one of us to have quick access to a centre line when stepping off the front, so we fitted a matching pair to the bow as well, one on either side. We already had the ropes curled idly in the fore-locker, so it wouldn't have bothered us if we found ultimately that they weren't necessary. So far, however, though we've not needed them often, they've been very handy when the occasion has arisen.

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Update to Chapter 1 - Hardware (added 30/03/19)

Okay, so we're into the realm of useful but non-essential extras here, but it is a cheap, useful, non-essential extra.

And this cheap non-essential extra is a hygrometer/thermometer, and it only costs £7. You'll understand the thermometer bit, but you may not know that a hygrometer measures the humidity of the air. The figure given is a percentage. The little emoji next to it smiles at you if the figure's a good one, and frowns if it's not.

Now, this means good for you, the human being breathing the air, but our use of it is to be aware for the sake of the boat. If you cast a look at it each time you pass it, you'll get a good idea of what's normal(ish) in your boat. If the figure rises significantly, you might want to ask yourself where the extra moisture is coming from. And that may help you find that leaking pipe under the sink (or whatever) before it gets too bad!

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Update to Chapter 1 - Hardware (added 09/03/19)

In the book, I recommend headband lamps for hands-off illumination of... well, whatever you want to illuminate. And I don't withdraw that recommendation but I do want to draw your attention to the USB rechargeable SMD LED beanie hat.

Grace gave me one of these as part of my Christmas present, and got herself one, too, and it's brilliant (pun intended). There are similar woolly hats with LEDs available from other sources, so shop around for the one that suits you best (and I'm not talking about how dashing you look in it!) What impresses me is the three levels of brightness available, and the very wide spread of the light. So far, I've used it doing a job under the car bonnet after dark, and it was perfect. And, of course, it's a very warm hat that you'll want to wear on any cold day.

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Update to Chapter 6 - Miscellany (added 27/01/19)

Please regard this tip as being simply an observation made, rather than specific instruction or recommendation, but I do feel it's an important piece of information, and one that very few boaters seem to know.

We've had Kantara's hull blacked twice and, more recently, zinc-sprayed. On each occasion we've seen the hull after it's been stripped to bare metal. And on each occasion we've noticed a rather alarming phenomenon. The anodes fitted to the hull seem to protect only a small area around them from pitting. It's very clear even without looking carefully.



Our boat's getting on a bit, and we thought the wisest thing to do to protect her pitted hull as far as it possible was to have it zinc-sprayed. It's not cheap, but it has a ten-year guarantee, so it's cheaper than having it blacked every two to three years.

I'm not recommending this treatment. It'll be some years before it can be said to have been tested adequately. It's an option you may wish to consider at some time. But in the meantime, be aware of the apparently poor protection that the standard anodes seem to give.

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Update to Chapter 2 – Software (added 07/11/18)

Those of you who are members of the AA will be aware of their app, and the facility it has to report an accident or breakdown with the simple touch of the screen. I've just heard from River Canal Rescue (the AA of the waterways) that they have an app with a similar function.

"Waterways SOS from River Canal Rescue (RCR) provides you with a fast and easy way to get help and assistance when you need it, from breakdowns to emergencies and requests for repairs. Just one click of the button will alert us and we will contact you to confirm your situation.
You will have the option of sending your request for assistance via your mobile data connection, or via SMS (charged at normal network rate or included in your SMS quota). This means you can use the app even if you do not have a mobile data connection or plan.
When sending a request for assistance, the app sends your GPS co-ordinates to River Canal Rescue. This allows the engineer to find your boat in the quickest possible time."

I have it on my phone, but haven't used it yet - though there is a quick way to check that it's working without actually calling out a rescue team - and I hope I never have to use it! I hope you don't, either, but I do recommend RCR membership (as I say in the book), and the app's a no-brainer, isn't it?

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Update to Chapter 1 – Hardware (bits and pieces) (added 19/06/18)

This is the first tip I've published that actually saves you money - and not an insignificant amount, either! It came to me from NB Alnwick, who got it from the even more experienced NB Epiphany, and now I've put it to the test as well.

If you have a cassette toilet, then you'll be buying blue or green fluid for it. We've been using Elsan Green for a long time. It costs us around £10 for a 2 litre bottle. The 120 millilitres we use per cassette gives us around 17 cassettes per bottle. Around 58p per cassette (all figures ignore decimal points).

The tip that we were given is to use Brewers' Yeast instead of the fluid. Yes, Brewers' Yeast! In the recommended tablet form, 4 x 500mg tablets are dissolved in 1 litre of warm water (that takes a while, so have the solution prepared in advance, or crush them to speed up the process) which is then poured into the clean cassette for use.

Do make sure that the cassette has no traces of the previously-used blue/green (or whatever colour!) fluid, because that may well kill the yeast. It works. And each use costs just 9p. A saving of around 49p per use over the fluids.

I've bought these tablets, but they're very widely available in many sizes and quantities. Just remember that you will be adding 2 grams of yeast to each cassette, however many tablets that might be.

In the unlikely event that you don't prefer these to the fluid, the tablets can be swallowed for their health benefits! Follow the directions on the pack.

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Update to Chapter 6 – Miscellany (added 18/05/18)

On the subject of communication between skipper and locker, be aware that locks can be noisy places when they're filling or emptying, what with the noise of the water and the engine noise of one or two boats, and this can drown voices. Be realistic, too, and realise that we don't always pay full attention to the things we should be paying attention to. We get distracted easily. What's needed, then, is a whistle, one each, and they need to be loud! This is for emergencies only. If either one of you sees something happening that shouldn't be happening, several blasts of the whistle will alert the other - and anyone else nearby. For safety reasons, I don't recommend wearing it around the neck on a lanyard, but in a pocket on a lanyard or similar that's fastened to a belt-loop on your jeans, it's easily accessed, and can be a life-saver!

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Update to Chapter 1 – Hardware (added 15/02/18)

When you're out and about on the waterways, as anywhere, you find that your phone signal gets stronger and weaker, and even comes and goes altogether. This is always a cause of frustration, but it's important to bear in mind that, on a canal far away from the nearest town or village, or even road, having a good signal can be extremely important. Consider boat breakdown, human illness or injury. In situations like these, you don't want to find you have no signal strength bars showing on your phone.

One solution is to use your internet connection and an app like Skype or WhatsApp to contact a family member or friend and get them to make that emergency call for you. (Remember that you can't make emergency calls across the internet). Of course, data reception might be poor, too.

Possibly the better solution would be to have on your boat at least one other phone that uses a different network. Since the national coverage of the different service providers differs from company to company, it often happens that, in the same spot, one phone will have no phone signal at all while another has very good signal. It goes without saying that this is not guaranteed to be the case everywhere you go, but having at least two different providers improves your chances of being able to make that important call.

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Update to Chapter 6 – Miscellany (added 10/02/18)

I mention the Canal and River Trust several times in the book. And I mention River Canal Rescue, too, though, to my shame, I don't make the recommendation that they deserve and that I wholeheartedly endorse - we've received excellent service from them on several occasions. I've also pointed you to the CRT website. In particular, I would now encourage you to sign up to that site, and join the mailing list of the Boaters' Update. You will then receive a monthly summary of the update, with links to each of its parts on the website. Very useful!

This month, CRT and RCR have teamed up to produce a very comprehensive guide to boat maintenance, which is downloadable from this page. I warn you now, it's a bit daunting, to say the least, but it is, nonetheless, very important if you want to keep your boat in optimum condition.

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Update to Chapter 2 – Software (added 01/02/18)

In the book, I recommend the Feersum TV app, but I have to say now that the Radio Times one is far, far better! Try it, and see for yourself.

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Update to Chapter 4 – At the lockside (added 27/11/17)

There's not much to say here. The poster says it all. Thanks to CRT for the THRIFT Code! I think the past couple of years have been the worst in our experience for canals being too low. We've been along stretches where the depth was six to eight inches lower than it should have been, and we've been across lock pounds where moored boats have been grounded. On several occasions it's clearly been because of careless locking. Please get it right, and save water for all to use.

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Update to Chapter 2 – Software (added 04/11/17)

In "Hints and tips..." I recommend apps that give you a grid reference or map reference for your current location. Just in case you need to call emergency services. But it's come to my attention that these types of location reference might soon be a thing of the past.

Now, I'm not telling you to dump the app you've already got for this purpose. After all, you got the information from a very good source! But I do suggest that you investigate what3words. At the very least, you'll be amazed, as I am!

"what3words is the simplest way to talk about any precise location. Our system has divided the world into a grid of 3m x 3m squares and assigned each one a unique address made of just 3 words. Now everyone and everywhere has a reliable address."

...and a pinpoint-accurate description of where they are while on the move, too. OK, not exactly pinpoint, but within 3 metres suits me just fine!

This video is a good place to start finding out more.

And do look at the free app, available for Android and iOS.

As I write, Kantara's  location is marmalade.melons.twitching!

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Update to Chapter 2 – Software (added 11/10/17)

I've just been alerted to an excellent app produced by St John Ambulance that could potentially help you save a life. It's a guide for how to deal with a range of first aid emergencies related to asthma, bleeding, bones and muscles, burns, chest pain, choking, drowning, head injuries, poisoning, resuscitation, seizure and stroke. It provides step-by-step instructions, in text and pictures as well as voice instructions to keep your hands free for giving first aid. It provides a good tutorial for you to work through away from any emergency situation, as well as instruction in case of an actual emergency.

While this app obviously doesn't beat having a first aid qualification, and it's not as detailed as traditional first aid manuals, it could literally be a lifesaver in an emergency. But as I say in the book, I do recommend taking a basic First Aid course if you have no real knowledge of the subject.

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Update to Chapter 6 – Miscellany (added 27/09/17)

I’m not at all happy with what I said in the book about clothing. My biggest problem with “Hints and tips...” has been trying to get the balance between writing all the things that I think boaters would be glad to be told, and avoiding the totally-flipping-obvious! And the subject of clothing presents me with that problem.

Should I tell you that denims are not a good idea in torrential rain because they absorb water easily and dry with difficulty? Should I say that good waterproof trousers are a much better idea because they resist water and dry quickly? Should I say that it’s worth spending as much as you can reasonably afford on those trousers, and a waterproof jacket and hat, too? That the better garments have taped seams?

Should I say that standard landlubbing wellies are not a good idea on boats because they’re too inflexible? That good grips on shoe soles need to be good grips on smooth, wet surfaces, not just on dry ones?

And should I add that, in cold weather, dressing in thin layers is better than donning your thickest, heaviest coat because that makes it easier to control your body temperature.

Or should I leave all that to your common sense?

Or are you all fair-weather cruisers anyway?

Difficult…

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Update to Chapter 3 – At the helm (added 27/09/17)

On our latest cruise, I met a man who told me about his first experience of driving a hire-boat through a tunnel. It was far too dark for him, and he found himself weaving and bumping his way along its length, terrified of meeting another craft coming the other way. His son came up from below to see what was going on.

“What’s up, Dad? Are you OK?”

“No! I can’t see a flipping thing! This is awful!”

There was a pause before the boy replied. “Dad, you’re wearing your sunglasses!”

That was an unfortunate mistake to make, but we have found that it is really helpful to don your shades for five minutes or so before going into a tunnel, regardless of how sunny the weather it is or isn’t. Then, when you remove them just as you enter (please note – remove them!), you find that you see clearly in the darkness right from the start, rather than having to get used to it.

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Update to Chapter 3 – At the helm (added 25/09/17)

Out cruising last week, we had the unfortunate experience of an oncoming boat coming around a right-hand bend (from his viewpoint) and crashing heavily into the forward port side of Kantara. No massive damage was done, but the offending skipper looked totally baffled. He had completely lost steering control, and going into reverse had failed to stop or even slow the advance of his boat. He was at a loss as to what had happened. The same thing had happened to Grace a few hours earlier, and it's happened twice to me, too, though, fortunately for us, there was no boat around the bend for us to hit.

The fact is, such a loss of control at a right bend isn't uncommon, and it's not usually your fault. It's the fault of bank effect. This is the tendency of the stern of a boat to swing towards the near bank when travelling in a river or canal - particularly if the passage is narrow and/or the water is shallow. This is most likely to happen on the inside of a bend where the water is at its shallowest.

The irregular flow of water around a boat induced by the near vicinity of banks causes pressure differences between port and starboard sides. As a result, a sideways force acts on the stern of the boat, mostly directed towards the closest bank, as well as a similar pressure that pushes her bow towards the centre of the waterway. The end result is your failure to go around the bend, and you career off towards the far side. The effect depends on several different factors, such as the shape of the bank, depth of water, closeness of the bank, and boat speed. Avoiding hugging the bank around bends will reduce the number of times this happens to you, but you're unlikely to escape it entirely!

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Update to Chapter 6 – Miscellany (added 06/09/17)

We currently have a problem with our water-heating system. The domestic water doesn't get hot when the engine's running. I have a couple of engineers looking into it, but so far they can't discover what's wrong. I took the initiative, and went to the Canal World Discussion Forum. Seriously, you'd be nuts not to join up right now, so that any time you have a problem, need advice or information, all you need to do is log in and type.

There's a lot of expertise amongst the membership. My first reply of several came from no less than Tony Brooks, who used to (does he still?) write a monthly article on boat maintenance, and ran all sorts of courses for boaters.

I think his suggestion may well be the right one. I've forwarded all of the replies to my engineers!

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Update to Chapter 6 – Miscellany (added 02/09/17)

We had an engineer visit yesterday to try to find out why our engine had been running strangely last week. Though the problem seemed to resolve itself on the day, we wanted to be as sure as possible that it wasn't a symptom of something that would strike while we're out faring next week for a couple of weeks.

Pete made a very thorough investigation, asked us lots of questions about our observations at the time, and finally concluded that there is nothing wrong! That was very good news, but then why had the engine behaved so oddly? And this is what he told us.

He had experienced the same thing himself once, had inspected the engine thoroughly and, not finding anything wrong at that level, was preparing to dig deeper and strip the engine when it occurred to him what was happening.

In our case, Kantara's been hooked up to a land-line for her power supply for much longer this year than any year previously. Because of that, the batteries have remained fully charged for most of that time. This has made them become "lazy", and actually lose efficiency. When we took the boat out, the (new, super-duper, whizz-bang) alternator did its thing and got to work, fully charging it. This made unusual demands on the engine, though the governor did its job in making sure the engine revs remained as normal as possible, so we didn't actually observe anything more than a slight wavering of the tachometer. The symptoms stopped once the battery was properly charged.

He explained the phenomenon of "sulphation", and told me that our batteries had become sulphated because they'd not been allowed to discharge for such a long time. The way to correct this is to disconnect the landline once a month, use your alternator for 230v appliances (but NOT the kettle, the immersion heater or any other electric heaters!) and let the batteries drop their voltage to around 12.2 volts before putting them back on charge. Being out faring, of course, the battery is constantly charged by the engine, then discharged under normal usage while you're moored. That's what batteries like.

Simple! Problem solved!

Except that one always has to bear in mind, said Pete the engineer, that that lead-acid batteries are far more complex than they look, and are generally misunderstood by most of us who use them. He is one of the inner sanctum of the enlightened, it would seem, and he was very helpful indeed!

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Update to Chapter 2 – Software (added 26/08/17)

A very useful canal map, usable off-line, can be downloaded from Open Canal Map. It can be viewed on Google Maps, or any other map viewer – they suggest Locus Maps as an alternative for Android or iPhone. You can view the map in your browser, too. In recognition of the fact that things change on the canals, there is a facility for users to add new details. A nice touch!

Of course, it can use your GPS facility to show you your current location, should you get lost. Oh all right then – should you be not quite sure where you are!

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Updates to Chapter 3 – At the helm (added 19/08/17)

Where I've talked about bow- and stern-springing in this chapter, I've only addressed the matter of springing off; that is, using the lines to move the boat off the bank. But springing can be used to bring the boat into the bank, too, and the Canal Boat Magazine article by Steve Vaughan covers this nicely.

photo - Nick Wall

It's not at all uncommon for boaters to come around a bend in the canal and find that boats moored in that bend are making his passing difficult. Similarly, boats that moor very close to a bridge. And, even worse, boats moored too close to a bridge on a bend (and have you noticed how common a phenomenon that is?!) Please bear that in mind when you choose a place to moor. If you're considerate of others, you'll want to make life easier for them, not harder. If you're entirely selfish, you'll want to reduce the chances of your boat being struck by another! If you're not sure whether or not your moored boat is a hazard to others, then I suggest that you walk back along the towing-path for some distance, then approach your boat with the eyes of someone coming around that bend, wanting to go through that bridge - or whatever. And watch a few craft as they pass you. Would you have minded being at their helm?

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Update to Chapter 6 – Miscellany (added 16/04/18)

REGULAR BOAT MAINTENANCE

Your boat needs a lot of care to maintain its value and performance. It is subjected to more stresses and strains than the average car, and does need pampering. There are routines that are best done daily when you’re cruising or just running the engine, monthly, and annually. Below is a general list that can be used as a guideline to help you become familiar with the quirks of your own boat. The list is by no means exhaustive, and certainly not specific to your boat and engine. Some of the work may best be done by a professional. If in doubt, ask.

With a boat that’s new to you, these check levels need to be upgraded significantly – daily checks done thrice daily, monthly done daily and so on, until you become familiar with the foibles of your boat. In fact, do all of the checks before your very first cruise!

Daily Checks

Morning pre-cruising or pre-running checks

• Engine oil level 
• Engine coolant level 
• Bilge levels; if there is any hint of oil or diesel in the water, add a little washing-up liquid before switching on the pump

Evening post-cruising checks

• Tighten the stern tube greaser to stop the dripping of water. Tighten it until resistance is felt, and then do a half to one turn more 
• Bilge levels 
• Inspection tray beneath the engine for any changes

Monthly Checks – Daily checks plus...

ENGINE

• Battery electrolyte levels 
• Flexible hoses, pipes and wiring for rubbing and wear 
• Drive belts worn or slack 
• Exhaust leaks 
• Diesel leaks from all pipework especially metal spill rails 
• Engine mount nuts; if they’re loose and if the top nut is a Nyloc, tighten the bottom nut upwards not the top nut downwards, otherwise get a professional in to do the job

CABIN

• WATER: Look for water seepage from the water pump and shower pump, from hoses for sink, shower and bath waste, from central heating connections, and from pump-out toilet fixings and pump-out pipes 
• Check the cabin bilge for water, and suck it out if necessary 
• GAS: Check gas flames (especially fridge, water heater, boiler) are burning clean blue - if not call in a qualified gas man 
• Inspect mooring ropes for chafing, and mooring pins, posts and rings for stability 
• When in continuous use, diesel drip-feed boilers need cleaning out every 6 to 8 weeks, more often when used intermittently 
• Engine oil changes should be according to manufacturers instructions or every 100hrs cruising/running time (150hrs for some, but not all, modern engines) 
• Oil filter changes should be done at least every other oil change after using a flushing additive

Beginning of season checks – Daily and monthly checks plus...

ENGINE

• Check engine alignment
• Check that the stern tube packing is adequate (not allowing too much drip, however hard the greaser is turned)
• Check the drive belts
• Fit new fuel filters
• Clean or renew the air filter
• Change the gearbox oil
• Check the weedhatch rubber seal
• Check for debris around the prop and shaft
• Check that the prop nut and split pin are secure
• Tighten the jubilee clips on hoses

CABIN

• Clean the electrical contacts on bullet and blade fuses 
• Clean in-line filters in the water pipes and shower pump 
• Set the accumulator tank pressure to 7psi 
• Replace drinking water filter cartridges 
• Service the central heating system 
• Service the gas fridge, and clean its flue 
• Have a soundness test done on the gas system by a competent person

End of season checks

ENGINE

• Check the antifreeze concentration (specific gravity) to minus 15 degrees Celsius 
• Clear heater plug holes 
• Check heater plug performance 
• Clean out any deck drains under deck boards, back deck hatch, front cockpit, cabin-edge handrails 
• Lift the weedhatch, and check the rubber seal, 
• Check for debris around the prop and shaft 
• Check that the prop nut and split pin are secure 
• Fill up the diesel tank to reduce condensation build-up

CABIN

• Check antifreeze concentration in the central heating (as for the engine) 
• Flush the toilet cassette and/or pump-out tank

Whenever the boat is left for a day or more

• Turn off gas appliances and the main gas supply
• Turn off the battery master switch(es)
• Tighten the stern tube greaser
• Some boaters also switch off the water pump

Preparation for winter

• If the boat is not to be used during the winter, many owners ‘winterise’ the boat. This normally means emptying the domestic water system to avoid problems with freezing pipes, and leaving cupboard and fridge doors open to allow air to circulate.
• Drain at least half of the water tank by running the pump and then close the tank isolating tap. With the water pump switched off, open all the taps. Then drain off the pipes by disconnecting the pipe from the pump and either draining into bowl or sucking out with a wet and dry vac. If you use a vac, do not suck through the pump, and open one tap at a time.
• With the pump pipework disconnected, switch the pump on for a moment to empty the pump chamber
• Do you have a gas instant water heater? Calorifier? Drinking water filter? Don't forget to drain those as well. Shower pumps can also be drained, but beware, the water will be smelly. Remove hair from the pump and filter at the same time.
• If your boat water tank has an inspection hatch, this is a good time to inspect inside it, clean it out, and re-paint if necessary
• When everything is drained and cleaned, leave the taps open and connect up the pipework again so as to avoid problems in the spring when you might fill the tank before you remember to connect the pipes!

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